The View from Fez - Photo Journal

The first Saturday after the festive Eid al-Adha holiday is one of the most popular times for Moroccan weddings. Every wedding reception hall in Fez was in full swing, but none more than the wedding of Abdoulhadi Bouzidi-Idrissi and Yousra Elalaoui Hachimi.

The Bouzidi-Idrissi family are an important and much loved family in Fez and the wedding was the one to be at on Saturday. The guest list included not only the extended families, but also members of the French, English, American, Australian and New Zealand expat communities.

From around five in the afternoon until the early hours of the morning the wedding developed into a joyful and spirited party!

The View from Fez was honoured to be invited and, in coming days, will post a full photographic essay on our Photo Journal. In the meantime, here is a taste of a memorable wedding.

The family and bride and groom assemble outside the venue, in preparation for the grand entry

The bride, Yousra Elalaoui Hachimi, is carried in on a wedding throne

The musicians marched in and the music soon had everyone dancing

The dancing began in an enthusiastic manner and eventually became frenetic!

As the tempo of the music increased, the dancers became a blur or light and colour!

With each change of wedding dress for the bride,
there was a change of wedding chair to match

Then came the ritual henna

Yousra shows off the completed beautiful henna design

After lots of sitting and being carried around it was a change to a red dress and then
Yousra and Abdoulhadi enjoyed the chance to dance


The most traditional of the bride's dresses is known as the "Fassia" - the dress from Fez.

Every moment was a "photo opportunity" - even signing the wedding documents

Another change - this time to a beautiful blue dress

The cutting of the wedding cake was followed by a touching "feeding" moment!

The wedding dinner was served at about 11.30 pm and was a traditional feast and much enjoyed

See anther Moroccan wedding with fabulous costume changes! Moroccan Wedding #1

Photographs: Suzanna Clarke and Sandy McCutcheon

SHARE THIS!

Return to The View from Fez

Eid in Morocco ~ 2011

2011-11-10T05:09:00.000-08:00

Around the streets of Fez and all over the Islamic world today, the words most often heard were “Eid Mubarak Said”. It is a greeting, a congratulation and a celebration of one of the holiest and most festive days in the Muslim calendar. Eid al-Adha - "feast of sacrifice" or "Festival of Sacrifice" or "Greater Eid" - is an important religious holiday celebrated by Muslims worldwide to commemorate the willingness of Abraham (Ibrahim) to sacrifice his son Ishmael (Isma'il) as an act of obedience to God, before God intervened to provide him with a sheep— to sacrifice instead.

It is a point of honour that every family who can afford to do so purchase a sheep, so in the past two weeks, the appraisal, buying and transport of them has been the main obsession. All over the Medina, sheep are being cajoled, pushed, carried and transported. The sound most frequently heard for the past few nights is bleeting and baaring, as mystified sheep taken from their fields find themselves in strange courtyards, up on a roof terraces, or even secreted away in bathrooms.

All that came to an end this morning, when following the King’s example, the signal was given for the mass sacrifice to begin.The View From Fez team was invited to share the celebrations with local restaurant owner Thami and his family. Their two sheep were waiting on the terrace.

Thami and his cousins took the biggest of the two rams and laid it on its side and stroked its neck for reassurance. After a prayer, the sheep was slaughtered and immediately bled.

Looking on were Thami’s wife Fatima and their four month old baby son, Hamza.Within minutes it was hung and the cleaning up began.

Then Thami cut a slit in the skin of the rear hind leg and blew into it, to make removal of the hide easier. After that it was cut open and the stomach, liver and lungs removed. The lacy fat (boulfaf) of the inner stomach lining was separated and carefully hung on a nearby washing line, for later use.

Everyone gets a go at fanning the flames

All over the Medina fires were being prepared. Some in the street others, as at Thamis', in the main salon of the house with the flames in a ceramic pot vigorously fanned until the charcoal reached the right heat.

The lacy "boulfaf" ready to wrap pieces of kidney and liver

Choice pieces of heart, liver and kidney are wrapped in stomach lining and then cooked

Thami brought down the liver and kidneys, which were barbequed and then wrapped in pieces of the stomach lining, before being skewered on kebab sticks and put back on the fire. The fat sizzled and spat, and the resulting meal, served between pieces of just-baked bread, was delicious and fortifying.

It gave us the energy for the walk up the hill. Along the Tal’aa Kebira, as in small squares and anywhere there was a few metres of open space all over the Medina, young men were barbequing the heads and bones.

The Medina in a haze of cooking smoke - Photo Gerard Chemit

Through the smoky haze, scenes resembled those in Dante’s Inferno. Beneath the skin of this ancient city, and echoed all over Morocco and the Islamic world, an ancient tradition endures.

Story and photographs: Suzanna Clarke & Sandy McCutcheon
Copyright The View from Fez 2011

Return to The View from Fez

Preparing for Eid al-Adha in Fez

2011-11-03T03:02:00.000-07:00

Buying a sheep for Eid has never been easier. You can purchase them in a nearby souk, go to the country and negotiate with a farmer, or to the local supermarket where they have erected tents and sell the rams by the kilogram. Then of course, there is the Internet and buying on-line.

The idea of E-sheep is not for everyone. Thami, who lives in the Fez Medina, told The View from Fez that he prefers to go to his home village and support the local producers, even if he has added transport costs. Eid does have an economic impact, especially on poorer families. So much so that in recent years many people resorting to bank loans set up specifically for Eid customers.

For those who do shop on-line for a sheep, there are some advantages. Bank executive, Tahiri Hamid, says it is more efficient than searching traditional markets. He says that while web prices are reasonable, sheep in the souks vary from one retailer to another. "Intermediaries are driving up prices," he complained to Maghrebia.com, "One must be a specialist to haggle and buy a good quality ram."

Getting your sheep is only the first step...

Getting it home is another story

Some methods are easier

And some sheep are better behaved

Walking your sheep home can take time

Then there are all the preparations - the charcoal and the barbecue

Of course your sheep will need feeding

...and your knives will need sharpening

...and the right barbecue equipment is essential

You do need a special "Eid Grill"

SHARE THIS!

Return to The View from Fez

Making perfect Moroccan mint tea

2011-10-31T08:50:00.000-07:00

Bronwen Edwards is an Australian currently spending a few days in Fez. She so enjoyed Moroccan mint tea and wanted to know more about how it is made. With the help of Samira from Riad Laaroussa, who writes the blog "A Moroccan Kitchen", she discovered the best way to get a glass of perfect mint tea was to make it herself.

First things first... find the right mint.

And the best way to test it is to crush some between your fingers and smell the aroma.

Bronwen gives the mint the "sniff test".

Making the tea.

For the basic traditional recipe, you require a metal tea pot that can be heated on a stove or simply a pot. Bring around a pint of water to the boil and add half a handful of green tea leaves (gunpowder tea is excellent)and several sugar lumps according to taste.

Bringing the green tea to the boil

Samira helps Bronwen select the best mint leaves.

Bring the water to the boil again and then remove from the heat while you place a large sprig of mint (or a couple of cups of leaves) into the water. It may seem like a lot, but pack it in and bring to the boil again then remove from the heat and let set for a couple of minutes.

Let the mint tea rest.

Pour one tea glass full of tea and then return it to the pot. Repeat this a couple of times. Now the tea is ready. Pour each glass from high enough above the glass to cause the tea to foam a little.

Enjoy!

Tip: Moroccan tea pot handles get very hot, so if you are in Fez, make sure you get a "Dave" - that's the little character pictured above on the pot-holder. For those who want to know why it is called a "Dave" - consult the TV series The League of Gentlemen... all will become clear ( er, maybe.) Daves cost about 20 dirhams

See all our Moroccan recipes here: MOROCCAN MENU!

See all our Photo Essays

2011-10-31T03:38:00.000-07:00

Photo: Sandy McCutcheon.

TO VIEW ALL OUR PHOTO ESSAYS, CLICK IN THE "PHOTO INDEX "IN THE LINKS ACROSS THE TOP OF THE PAGE OR CLICK HERE

Atlas Mountains Carpet Souk ~ Photo Essay

2011-10-31T02:50:00.000-07:00

A carpet auction is a vivid and theatrical experience to onlookers and an economic necessity to those who produce the carpets. Suzanna Clarke visits the one held in the Middle Atlas town of Khenifra.

Red is the colour primarily associated with the Middle Atlas town of Khenifra, 165 kilometers from Fez and 300 kilometers from Marrakesh. Not only is it the vibrant hue of the hills and escarpements of the surrounding Meknes-Tafilalet region, but it is also the colour of the blood spilt during the many battles fought by the proud Berber tribe of Zayane, who are the main inhabitants.

The name Khenifra comes from the Amazigh (Berber) word Khanfar which means "attack ". A vital staging post on the trade routes, during the twentieth century the region was fiercely resistant to French colonisation. It wasn’t until 1920, after numerous bloody battles, that the Zayane and neighbouring Berber tribes with whom they had united, were forced into submission. However, they were never entirely subdued and popular uprisings followed.

Nowadays, the palm tree-lined streets of the city, with their pink toned buildings, are clean and relatively affluent. The main street features a sculpture of a Berber clasp, or fibula.

A short walk away is the central carpet souk. Here, the colour red also predominates in the hand woven rugs on sale in the small shops around the fringe, and there are also other vivid colours along with white and black.

In the centre of the souk is an open area, with benches on the side, which is regularly used for carpet auctions. It is here the women from the villages in the region come to sell their wares. These carpets represent months of work by groups of women, who make styles and designs distinctive to their area. Usually, the two senior women of the village go to the souk, carrying their bundles, to do the deals. Naturally, the price they can achieve will have an impact on the kind of winter they and the rest of their village will endure.

The women gather at the souk hours beforehand, to await the other players in the process – the dallal, or auctioneers, and the carpet dealers, who have small shops around the fringe.

When the auction starts, it is like the opening of a play. From the wings come a line of wiry, weatherbeaten men – the dallal, lugging carpets that look almost as heavy as themselves. The carpets are unfurled with a flourish, for the appreciation of the attentive audience. An opening price is called and the auction is on. The dallals are in constant motion: as well as displaying the carpet to the crowd, they ferry it around the carpet dealers in the shops, who may also bid. The bidding begins when the first bidder shouts “Oukha” or “okay”. It’s done in the colonial currency of reals, in jumps of 100 reals at a time. (The equivalent of five Moroccan dirhams, or 63 US cents.)

The women from the villages watch with a mixture of patience, wry amusement, and delighted smiles as their carpet reaches the hoped for price; or anxiety if it fails to sell despite making the rounds repeatedly.

When there is only one bidder remaining, then he - and it is usually a man - is declared the winner, and the money is handed over directly to the seller. Both parties then give a small commission to the dallal.

Some women choose to sell their carpets straight to the dealers. They may achieve a higher price at auction, but they run a risk if it fails to sell, as a dealer may see it as an indication that the carpet will be difficult to move.

Interested buyers also flock to the auction, to get the pick of the carpets. The dealers pass the carpets on to the big carpet shops in Fez and Marrakesh. So a carpet for which a group of women may have received less than a thousand dirhams (US $125) can end up selling for many times that by the time it reaches its final destination.

If you would like to see the regular Khenifra carpet auction in action, contact Michele at Yomikha Travel on +212 (0) 642 704 601 or chriftrans@gmail.com. She can tell you when the auctions are held and arrange transport.

See also: Guide to buying Moroccan Carpets

All Photographs: Suzanna Clarke or Sandy McCutcheon

Text and photographs copyright The View from Fez 2011
Please ask permission before reproducing.

SHARE THIS!

Return to The View from Fez

Tissa Horse Festival 2011 ~ Photo Essay

2011-10-02T03:15:00.000-07:00

The View from Fez team arrived in Tissa in the early morning. Festivities and competition was not due to start until around 9.30 am, so we spent time chatting with locals and checking out the magnificent horses as they were prepared for the big event - the Fantasia.

In the hours before the competition began, the contestants and their mounts were extremely busy. Every last detail of equipment was checked, saddles made ready and the rifles, that play such a dramatic part in the event, were loaded and discharged.

There was also a fair bit of horse-trading, with good horses selling for between 4000 and 9000 Euro.

The care with which the horses and equipment were treated was also extended to the riders, with barbers tents set up and offering haircuts and shaves.

After grooming the horses, the various teams assembled and spent the last half hour before competition, polishing and dusting every surface on the equipment and their own outfit. Then it was into the arena for a drill session. This was mostly about formation riding and not firing their rifles.

The Tissa Horse Festival re-lives Morocco's rich and often war-like history. It's still extremely daunting to see a line of warriors dressed in white charging straight towards you on their spirited Arab stallions. Stopping within centimetres of the wooden fence at the finish, they fire muzzle loaded rifles in a deafening volley. On occasion a horse can't be restrained and breaks through.

While the Tissa Horse Festival is held in honour of a local patron saint, a fifteenth century Holy man, called Sidi Muhammad ben Lahcen, the displays of skilled horsemanship are primarily about speed, team work, discipline and manoeuvrability.

Teams are judged by officials who watch from in front and on both sides. The criteria involved includes the neatness of the formation as it charges, the ability to charge right up to the fence at the end of the field and the discharging of the rifles in unison. It was an extraordinary event that thrilled the more than four thousand spectators.

There is no doubting the skills involved in this "sport" - and no way of avoiding the fact that is also dangerous. There were several minor spills, cuts and bruises during the morning events, but, thankfully, only one serious incident in which a horse fell and crushed the rider beneath him. What was so impressive was the speed in which first aid was available. It was no more than five seconds after the accident before the ambulance officer sprinted assist. The injured man was transported to hospital and his condition was not serious.

By the middle of the day, the competition was over and the teams paraded in front of the official tents. It was good news for the local team, who took out the first prize, closely followed by the horsemen of Fez.

Click images to enlarge

Photographs by Suzanna Clarke and Sandy McCutcheon

Return to The View from Fez

Moroccan Photo Competition Final Results

2010-12-01T15:50:00.000-08:00

At Cafe Clock the judges announced their decisions in the Moroccan Photography Competition. The competition was run as part of the 5th birthday festivities for The View from Fez

Out of the 102 finalists, the judges made special mention and commended the following photographs.
#1 Fez photo by Nigel Tradwell. "Beautiful composition and use of natural light"
#19 Woman on rooftop by Harry Eyre "Chic shot capturing a priceless moment"
#26 Fantasia by Lynn Evans Davidson "Superb non-clichéd high action shot"
#31 The cistern in El Jadida by Elizabeth Gracon. "A jewel of a photo using natural light"
#37 "1912" Old Medina, Fez: by Rita Houari - "Wonderfully moody, timeless black and white"
#46 Soldier in Rabat: by A.J. Jamal "Wonderful composition"
#78 In the souk in Casablanca: by Terry Gordon. "A rare moment. Captivating and funny"
#91 Sahara: by Gigi Stoll "Texture is everything in this superb pic"
#93 Window to the world, Tangier. by Koós Kinga "Timeless Tangier in sepia. Fine work"

The judges also awarded a "Highly Commended Award" to local photographer Omar Chennafi for his "Fez Doorway." "A photo that can be read in so many ways. Memory, hope for the future... a simple but arresting image."

Omar Chennafi - "Fez Doorway."

And the winners of the two categories The People's Choice and The Judges Award....

To complicate matters, The People’s Choice and the Judges had selected exactly the same first and second place photos.

2nd Place in both categories was Vanessa Bonnin’s "Volubilis after rain". "Talk about how to make the Roman look Gothic! Sensing the light would be perfect, Vanessa raced off to Volubilis and got a photograph to be proud of".

1st Place in both categories was Thami Benkirane's "A farnatche in Fez" The judges said "Thami Benkirane used no tripod, was shooting on film and going where most of us would not even think of.. the photo is stunning."

All 102 finalists in the competition can be viewed HERE

THANKS!
The View from Fez would like to thank Cafe Clock for the hospitality! Also our sponsors who provided prizes: a very generous accommodation package for two in Fez, donated by the good folks at Dar El Menia, a two sumptuous meals for two at Cafe Clock as well as a luxury hammam provided by Riad Laaroussa. And thank you to all those who entered photographs, it was wonderful to be able to show your images to thousands of people around the world.

Return to The View from Fez

Moroccan Photography Competition (list 10)

2010-10-01T00:29:00.000-07:00

[ 98 ]
Fez Medina: Photographer: Suzan Kaplan

[ 99 ]
Fez 'a stroll in the old Medina': Photographer: Suhana Chowdhury

[ 100 ]
Marrakech Night Market: Photographer: John Cotter

[ 101 ]
Seffarine Square in Fez: Photographer: Małgorzata Dopierała

[ 102 ]
Cats in Madrasa Bou Inania in Fes: Photographer: Leszek Harasimowicz

SEE ALL PHOTOS HERE

Moroccan Photography Competition List #1
Moroccan Photography Competition List #2
Moroccan Photography Competition List #3
Moroccan Photography Competition List #4
Moroccan Photography Competition List #5
Moroccan Photography Competition List #6
Moroccan Photography Competition List #7
Moroccan Photography Competition List #8
Moroccan Photography Competition List #9
Moroccan Photography Competition List #10

Return to The View from Fez

Moroccan Photography Competition (list 9)

2010-09-29T05:17:00.000-07:00

[ 91 ]
Sahara: Photographer: Gigi Stoll

[ 92 ]
Middle Earth: Photographer Bilan Abdillahi

[ 93 ]
Window to the world, Tangier. Photographer Koós Kinga

[ 94 ]
Tagine man: Photographer: Jeremy Nicol

[ 95 ]
Morocco: Photographer Richard Lawson

[ 96 ]
Morocco: Photographer: Omar Chennafi

[ 97 ]
Désolée pour la taille!! Photographer Richard Lawson

See more photographs

Moroccan Photography Competition List #1
Moroccan Photography Competition List #2
Moroccan Photography Competition List #3
Moroccan Photography Competition List #4
Moroccan Photography Competition List #5
Moroccan Photography Competition List #6
Moroccan Photography Competition List #7
Moroccan Photography Competition List #8
Moroccan Photography Competition List #9
Moroccan Photography Competition List #10

Return to The View from Fez

Moroccan Photography Competition (list 8)

2010-09-21T18:54:00.001-07:00

[ 81 ]
Photographer: Christopher Witulski

[ 82 ]
Between Marrakesh and Agadir:

Photographer: Mohamed Mouad EL GORDE

[ 83 ]
Photographer: Richard Lawson

[ 84 ]
Volubilis after rain

Photographer: Vanessa Bonnin

[ 85 ]
Casablanca Beach in May

Photographer Rafik Elassab

[ 86 ]
A random rooftop in Fez

Photographer: Clay Chaszeyka

[ 87 ]
The Weaver - Ait Ben Hadaou
Photographer Annah Evington

[ 88 ]
Desert dweller - Jebel Sahro
Photographer Annah Evington

[ 89 ]
Gotcha! -Djemaa el Fna

Photographer Annah Evington

[ 90 ]
Morocco: Photographer: Gigi Stoll

Moroccan Photography Competition (list 7)

2010-09-14T18:18:00.000-07:00

[ 72 ]
The beauty of Ziz Valley -

Photographer; Emilia Wojanczyk, Warsaw, Poland

[ 73 ]
Ready for Eid (Fez, 2010)

Photographer: M.M. Waraich

[ 74 ]
Kasbat Moulay Ismaeil, near Kenitra

Photographer: Laurence Ogle

[ 75 ]
The old kasbah in Meski (near Errachidia) and looking out to the Ziz valley

Photographer: Kirsty McArdle

[ 76 ]
The Medina in Fez: Photographer- Bram Hubbell, New York

[ 77 ]
Sun setting over Al-Anasar, in the Rif Mountains.

Photographer: "Rif for Anyone"

[ 78 ]
In the souk in Casablanca.
Photographer: Terry Gordon.

[ 79 ]
Fez laneway

Photographer: Jeremy Nicol

[ 80 ]

Plazza Uta El-Hammam

Photographer: Terry Gordon

Moroccan Photography Competition (list 6)

2010-08-10T18:00:00.000-07:00

[ 60 ]
Essauoira
photographer Darren Lewey

[ 61 ]
She will be loved - Photographer: Jennifer Zabala

[ 62 ]
Photographer Lise Cruickshank

[ 63 ]

Market at Had Draa near Essaouira,

photographer: Wolfgang Dreesbach

[ 64 ]
Photographer: Ali Tollervey

[ 65 ]
Marrakech Souq: Photographer: Priya Marwaha

[ 66 ]
Fez. Photographer: Johanne Doumas

[ 67 ]
Agadir 2007: Photographer, Edita Grubiene

[ 68 ]
Three men in Chefchaouen. Photographer, Kirsten Monkemeyer

[ 69 ]
Everyday life - On the streets of the medina in Tangier.

Photographer: Koós Kinga

[ 70 ]
Freedom run: Photographer Nina Galbert

[ 71 ]

Fes Station: Photographer: Lynette Reece

Moroccan Photography Competition List #5

2010-07-27T18:40:00.000-07:00

[ 49 ]
Alone - Photographer Mohamed Cherik

[ 50 ]
Wedding preparations at the beauty salon in Afourer. Photographer: Kerstin Brand, July 2010

[ 51 ]
Fez Dyer's souq

photographer Tom Fakler, Kampong Cham, Cambodia

[ 52 ]
Meknes Waterman - Photographer: Enoch Latham

[ 53 ]
Jaws - photographer: David Cruickshank

[ 54 ]
Chefchaouen - Photographer: Maggie Cruickshank

[ 55 ]

Fez Medina 2008 - Photographer Louise

[ 56 ]

Kohl Eyes - photographer: Lynn Evans Davidson

[ 57 ]
Toubkal South Ridge (in winter) - Photographer Des Clarke

[ 58 ]

Curious shadow - photographer Malcolm Campbell, Los Angeles, USA

[ 59 ]

In front of the zaouia Tijani - photographer Eberhard Hahne

Moroccan Photography Competition List #4

2010-06-22T17:36:00.000-07:00

[ 37 ]
"1912" -Old Medina, Fez: Photographer : Rita Houari

[ 38 ]
Photographer: Agharass

[ 39 ]
Agadir - Photographer: Melna Kakje.

[ 40 ]
Local boys cooling off in Essaouira. Photographer: Kathleen Bold

[ 41 ]

Fès: Traffic problems at the old medina. Photographer: Joaquim Caudevilla, Sabadell-Barcelone

[ 42 ]
Photographer: Sanaa Bouchikhi

[ 43 ]
Photographer Tom Mullins

[ 44 ]
If these walls could talk ! Photographer: Tom Mullins, Washington DC

[ 45 ]

Birds in Fez - Photographer Mounir Adghoughi

[ 46 ]
Photo from Rabat: photographer: A.J. Jamal

[ 47 ]

The foothills near Tahanout (northern foothills of the High Atlas)

Photographer: Angela Panther

[ 48 ]
Sweets - photographer: Hella Jaschke

Moroccan Photography Competition List #3

2010-05-06T01:21:00.000-07:00

[ 24 ]

Photographer: Chai, Yew Wei

[ 25 ]

Morocco - photographer Tatiane Feres

[ 26 ]
Fantasia - photographer Lynn Evans Davidson

[ 27 ]

In Fez - photographer Jennifer Prillaman

[ 28 ]

Photographer: Abdel Halim El Hachimi

[ 29 ]

Essaouira Beach Bar (above) Hotel in Ifni (below) - photographer Jakob Trägårdh

[ 30 ]

[ 31 ]
The cistern in El Jadida on a rainy day when the sun hit it just perfectly.

- photographer Elizabeth Gracon

[ 32 ]

Rabha - Photographer, Sara Taylor

[ 33 ]
Mother and child - Photographer Katherine Rosenberg.

[ 34 ]

Shoes in the souq - Photographer Lisa Lark (New Zealand)

[ 35 ]

Marrakech - photographer, Tiffany Aires

[ 36 ]

Photographer: Tina Christensen, Burlington, Vermont

Moroccan Photography Competition (list# 2)

2010-05-01T00:32:00.001-07:00

[ 10 ]
Morocco - Photographer Nabta Idries.

[ 11 ]
Breakfast on the roof of a riad in Marrakesh, april 2009

Photographer James Asbey

[ 12 ]
Stork in Fez - Photographer Chandra Chase

[ 13 ]
The Players - photographer, Bryan Dawe

[ 14 ]
Getting the tan - Photographer Nataša Novak

[ 15 ]
Leather Rose - Photographer Jess Stephans

[ 16 ]
Photographer - Zoe Elkaim

[ 17 ]
Catnap - photographer Martin Salata

[ 18 ]
Photographer: Nora Fitzgerald

[ 19 ]
Woman on rooftop - photographer Harry Eyre

[ 20 ]
Sufi night at Riad Zany - Photographer Dominick

[ 21 ]
Toubkal (normal South Cwm route) with Timesguida and Ras Ouanoukrim in the back right - Photographer - Des Clarke

[ 22 ]
"Caro on the scales" - Photographer Chris Gilchrist

[ 23 ]
Men in a souq in Fez. Photographer Ragne Kabanova

Moroccan Photography Competition list #1

2010-03-19T05:53:00.000-07:00

In October 2010 The View from Fez team celebrated our fifth anniversary with a huge photography competition. The following pages contain all the entries

THE ENTRIES

[ 1 ]
Fez photo by Nigel Tradwell

[ 2 ]
A farnatche in Fez - photographer Thami Benkirane

[ 3 ]
Nass - sleeping in Jamaa El Fna (photo: Kerrie Buivydas)

[ 4 ]
In the souq - photographer Clay Chaszeyka

[ 5 ]
Fez - Photographer Tamsin Ranger

[ 6 ]
Water-seller in Fez. Photographer Stewart Herring

[ 7 ]
Fez Derb - photographer Vanessa Bonnin

[ 8 ]
In the Rif - photographer William Sherlock

[ 9 ]
Coffee shop in Fez - Photographer Jerome Lorieau

Moroccan Plaster Design

2009-12-17T00:50:00.000-08:00

Many people have asked how Moroccan plasterers manage to make such wonderful shapes and designs. Well, here is a simple demonstration of one such undertaking

.

The plasterer is Abellkader and his task is to transform a hammam doorway into a more traditional style.

His first job is to mark out the curved template, which he does on a piece of plywood.

Next comes the cutting of the template. This is the only point in the work where Abellkader uses a non-traditional tool.

Abellkader checks the template against the door.

Unlike other countries where plaster mixing is often done with a large electric mixer, Abellkader prefers to mix by hand. "With my hand I can continually monitor the mixture and get it perfect. A machine can not do that," he says.

A small notch has been made in the door frame and nails hammered into the top of the door. Abellkader balances a traditional clay brick into the notch and the secures it with a thick, quick drying rough plaster.

It takes the plaster a couple of minutes to make the brick secure.

Using the same rough plaster mix, Abellkader fills in behind the brick and strengthens it by pushing small scraps of brick into the mixture.

Once both sides have been given the rough shape, Abellkader checks with the plywood template.

The bottom of the design must be straight on both sides, so Abellkader adds a wooden guide.

The template is then attached with a small amount of plaster and the shape of the design is refined.

The final touches are added.

Next the template is removed and the already hardening plaster is scraped into the final shape, leaving a good surface that is the correct shape, but with a texture that allows a good grip for the final addition of fine plaster.

Abellkader - happy with the final outcome. Total time? Three hours.

Return to The View from Fez

Eid Festival in Fez.

2009-11-29T03:42:00.000-08:00

The View from Fez team were invited into a local Moroccan home to celebrate Eid. Our host was the gracious Thami from Thami's Restaurant. Just after we arrived two visitors to Fez also were invited in. One was from Mexico and the other was Tess, from Sydney, Australia.

Needless to say the visitors were amazed at their good fortune and the opportunity to experience a genuine cultural event. The View from Fez would like to thank Thami and his family for their warm generosity.

The first of three sheep makes its entrance

Sheep wrangling? No problem.

Preparing to skin the sheep

The third sheep is sacrificed

"They will never believe this back in Sydney" Tess.

"Not what I do in my living room... but..." Tess.

Preparing the kebabs of heart and liver

Fanning the flames

Thami does the barbecue

Everyone dressed up.

A satisfied Tess succumbs to the hospitality!

Meanwhile, out on the streets, every corner and spare space seems to have a fire underneath old mattress frames. Goats and sheep heads are being cooked everywhere causing a haze of smoke over the Medina.

The local boys in R'cif

Image from Imelda O'Reilly's -Bricks, Beds and Sheep's Heads

For those who would like to see more of the Eid celebrations we recommend viewing Imelda O'Reilly's short film Bricks, Beds and Sheep's Heads

Some basic facts: Cost of a sheep can be up to 3000 dirhams. Cost of having a professional kill and skin it has risen from 50 dirhams three years ago to 150 this year.

Return to The View from Fez

Making B'stilla (P'stilla) ~ Photo Essay

2009-11-21T00:41:00.000-08:00

The View from Fez has had the pleasure in the last few weeks of hosting legendary young Australian chef Katerina Annels. While in Fez we sent her out on assignment to discover the traditional way to make b'stilla. This is one of the signature dishes of Morocco and as Katerina reports it is relatively simple to make. Here is her report and her photographs.

While in Fez I have discovered warika, a paper thin bread used for both savouries and sweets. Somewhat like filo ( if you use a few layers) - this stuff is fantastic! Experimenting with ways to use warika (do i feel another article coming on?) I have decided that I like it better then filo, as it gives a beautiful crisp golden exterior when baked. Yum

Imagine my delight when Thami, from Thami's restaurant, on learning of my quest to find alternative uses of warika, offered to show me the process of making traditional P'stilla.

Warika and almonds ready for p'stilla

I arive early in the morning, Thami is out shoping, buying everthing fresh for that day. Hasania is in the kitchen preparing the vegetable dishes, (before the meat arives). When Thami comes back from shoping I am greated with a smile, a tour of the kitchen, a taste of everything that going (cooked or not) and a big bag of spices, 'so I can cook good Moroccan food at home'. Next I am dragged down the street, sat down and given a bowl of heated preserved camel meat with eggs. Before I can take more than a bite (suprisingly eddible) I am whisked back up the street again. All the niceties taken care of, we are ready to begin making the p'stilla

A small handfull of almonds is ground down to crumbs in an old brass mortar and pestle.

A hand full of rice, and some pre-socked turmeric raisins and onions are added to the mix

...a dash of olive oil

Half an onion, finely chopped, a big pinch of cinamon, a tablespoon of icing-sugar

Some sauce from the vegetable tagine bubbling in the corner is added (water would do) and then an egg

Mixed together and fried on the flat grill. I guess that the chicken would be added here, for some reason, my limited language skills cannot discover, we are making one with out chicken, or more traditionally pigeon.

Part of the joy of this cooking lesson was the way in which Thami approached everything with a joyful party atmosphere (something severely missing in most Australian kitchens).

Three or four sheets of warika are chosen.

placed over a plate

and filled with the cooked mixture

It is folded, thus...

... and thus!

until you have a neat parcel.

Then it's ready for the oven or the pan. We have done this in the oven and it works just as well.

Deep fried in hot oil till golden. The warika also protects the filling from soaking in the oil far more effectively then any other pastry I have found.

The hot p'stilla is dusted with icing-sugar

and decorated with cinnamon

Voila!

YUM BIZEF!

Soft and crispy, sweet and savoury, spiced and simple, this dish brings it all together. If your looking to try it, I recommend tapping off the excess icing sugar before tucking in to this wonderful dish.

Photos: Sandy McCutcheon

Return to The View from Fez

SHARE THIS!

Making traditional Moroccan couscous

2009-11-13T07:45:00.000-08:00

Recently two of The View from Fez team took part in a traditional couscous preparation course. Australia's legendary young chef, Katerina Annels, has kindly done a review for us. Suzanna Clarke took the photographs. Here is Katerina's report...

Mmmm, couscous, one of those lovely intangible things. When I am told that we are going to a traditional couscous class I am delighted. But when can I use this skill? I imagine a process like making fresh pasta, hours spent over the dough. Undoubtedly worth the effort, but a somewhat daunting experience and hardly commercially viable.

We wind our way to café clock. spiral past the kitchens, dining rooms and up on to the terrace, with views across the Medina and I am told, the best camel burger in Fez.

In the corner of the terrace is a collection of expats and tourists gathered around a huge pot full of chicken cabbage and spices(see the recipe attached) and emitting the most delightful smells. Amongst this group is Cynthia Berning, a young peace corps volunteer 1 year into her 2 year Morocco contract, and Atika Diouri, President of ENNAHDA (a women’s association, for cultural development, producing traditionally rolled couscous) our teachers.

We start with a coarse wheat flour, wholegrain is the best (it creates a wonderful nutty flavour to the couscous) placed in a large, flat, glazed ceramic tray. A light sprinkle of water (too much will make the couscous into a dough), and perhaps a pinch of salt. Using the flats of the hands we rub the water into the couscous, those with more practice creating beautiful spiral patterns, as the flour turns to crumbs.

Once the crumbs are formed the couscous is pasted through a course sieve, a little more flour (finer this time) is added to the crumbs too large to fit through the sieve, and remixed until they to pass through.

Next the couscous is passed through a fine sieve to remove the flour, more water is added to the flour, and the above process is repeated until all the flour is transformed in to little balls neatly sized between the two sieves (the more uniform you wish your couscous to be, the closer in size you make your two sieves).

The couscous class

Once all the couscous has passed through both sieves it is ready to stream, we steam for approximately 20 mins, over the sauce and without a lid. Don’t worry about the holes in the steamer; any couscous that falls through will simply thicken your sauce. After approximately 20min the couscous will begin to pull away from the edge of the steamer, this is the sign that your couscous is ready for the first fluff.

The important stuff!

Couscous is very "hands-on"

Atika fluffs the couscous with her bare hands, first pushing the couscous apart, then very lightly and gently rubbing it between her hands to separate the grains. The rest of us look on with various degrees of horror imagining the steam scalding delicate hands and fingers. She waits, fingers unscathed, as Cynthia explains that at this point you can dry the couscous, laying it flat in the sun, till it is darker and dry.

If you’re not drying your couscous but wish to eat it, it’s time to add more water, sprinkling and mixing as we did earlier. You can add water more liberally now that the wheat is cooked it is less likely to turn to dough, however do it gradually as you want moist not sodden couscous. Once fluffed and moistened place your couscous back in the steamer and steam until it yet again pulls away from the side of the streamer, approximately 20 min.

Once again we fluff and moisten the couscous, this time adding a little oil and salt. Then its back in the steamer, one last time. And suddenly there it is

Delicious hand rolled couscous, soft, slightly chewy, irregular, nutty and utterly delicious. This is the real deal. It’s as different from the dried couscous and cheddar is from brie.

Variations include adding dried herbs, salt and spices or using a different base flour, semolina, barley and corn flour to name just a few.

Can I see myself making this? Yes, yes and one thousand times yes, this is the real deal, I am delighted at the thought of bringing out a dish of fresh made couscous to a table full of patrons, who think they know what couscous is (as I did) and watching their faces melt as they saver the taste.

Perhaps you are lucky and have grown up with this, wondering at my amazement. But perhaps you are enthralled and wish to try? By all means do it at home, it’s far easier than you imagine. But if you want a little more guidance, or an adventure, Cafe Clock runs half day couscous rolling workshops, you can also do a full day course with the women from ENNAHDA including a home stay in Khoukhat. Khoukhat, 2.5 hours south of Fez, is known as the valley of 7 springs. El Karma spring, the fig spring, is considered the life blood of the village, and it is after this spring that the women of ENNAHDA have branded their couscous, made and dried as listed above.

If you wish to try handmade couscous but without the effort, you can contact them direct (en.associationennahda.org ) or buy through Cafe Clock, the cost is approximately 20 dirhams/kg

The real deal.... great couscous!

The View from Fez would like to thank Kat for her report and for her amazing cooking while in Fez. See also : More on traditional couscous

The Kat in her natural environment!

Return to The View from Fez

A Cooking Lesson in Fez

2009-05-21T01:09:00.001-07:00

For a while there were only a few people teaching Moroccan cooking in Fez. Now the competition has well and truly been turned up and there are many places in the Fez Medina where visitors can learn to cook Moroccan dishes. Recently The View from Fez reported on Cafe Clock and Gail of FezFood having joined forces to launch a new Moroccan cooking school called Clock Kitchen and we will report more about that at a later date.

Today we will look at one of the several guest houses and riads that offer visitors to Fez the opportunity to spend a day learning the finer points of Moroccan cookery.

When Bronwen and Glen Edwards from Australia wanted to experience Moroccan cooking first hand they teamed up with Samira from the blog A Moroccan kitchen. Samira works at Riad Laaroussa and has the gift of making everyone feel at home in her amazing kitchen.

What follows is a photo-essay of the day that Glen and Bronwen spent with Samira.

Before setting out Samira updates her blog

The food and vegetable souq is crowded

Samira checks the quality of everything

Bronwen and Glen are impressed by the freshness of the vegetables.

At the butcher, Samira not only selects the meat, but insists on how it should be cut.

All through the shopping trip Samira takes time to answer questions and point out things of interest.

When the meat, fish and vegetables have been purchased, Samira, Glen and Bronwen head back to Riad Laaroussa and begin the chores of vegetable preparation, washing, cutting, peeling and chopping.

Preparing string beans and roasting peppers.

Bronwen makes a note of spices and Moroccan salad ingredients

It is now after 12 noon and sensing that everyone is getting hungry, Samira and her friend Fatima whip up a feast of Moroccan sardines and a beautiful fresh salad. One little known fact is that Morocco is the world's largest exporter of sardines.

Lunch in the kitchen at Riad Laaroussa

After lunch the serious business of preparing the dinner menu begins. there are a number of different Moroccan salads to make as well as a main course and a dessert.

The final part of the day is the meal enjoyed in wonderful surroundings and accompanied by a glass of fine wine.

Moroccan salads

Glen and Bronwen's Lamb and bean tagine.

Samira's special dessert - strawberries marinated in orange juice and spices.

For more information about Samira and the cooking classes, please visit Samira and Sabah's blog - A Moroccan Kitchen.

Return to The View from Fez

A Moroccan Wedding - photo essay.

2009-05-16T04:11:00.000-07:00

The View from Fez was privileged to attend the wedding of Si Mohamed and Hakima. Tom Fakler took the photographs.

The bride and groom were married a few months ago, but according to tradition, couldn't begin their life together until they'd celebrated properly with family and friends. The party took place at one of the wedding halls in the new city of Fez.

Si Mohamed with his sisters

Henna patterns on Hakima's hands

Si Mohamed ready for the ceremony

The bride and groom enter the hall - Hakima in a splendid silver dress and borne aloft on a silver wedding chair, and Si Mohamed on horseback

Guests are plied with a multitude of sweet cakes, mint tea and fruit juice ...

... and, of course, the wedding cake

Si Mohamed and Hakima start the dancing

There are several changes of costume for both ... blue

and lavender, in another wedding chair

a gold traditional wedding outfit

and green

and finally, a traditional western white dress

Everyone enjoys the party

The View from Fez wishes Si Mohamed and Hakima every happiness.

SEE ANOTHER MOROCCAN WEDDING HERE

Return to The View from Fez

Traditional Berber Bread Making

2009-05-12T05:42:00.001-07:00

In the tiny Berber village of Tassa Ouirgane in the High Atlas mountains, The View from Fez team learned how to make tanort, a traditional Berber bread. You will find the recipe here - Berber Bread.

First find a takat at the souq (market). These are upside down.

Check it is smooth inside

While the oven heats up (about an hour) prepare the dough.

Take half the dough and shape like a thin pizza

Wet it then press against takat wall.

Then do the same with the rest of the dough

and place it on the other side of the takat.

Cover the takat with a tagine lid to retain heat

After ten minutes it should be ready

Remove the tanourt (bread)

Scrape off any burnt pieces

Finally, serve with olive oil, argan oil or honey
Great with mint tea!

Enjoy!

Return to The View from Fez

Around Fez - Visiting Moulay Idriss

2009-05-02T04:28:00.000-07:00

Moulay Idriss

Take one mountainside house in a charming village medina, add lots of light and a flash of artistic flair, and you get a superb retreat that's ideal for a break away from the imperial cities of Fez and Meknes.

Moulay Idriss is perched a few kilometres above Volubilis, near Meknes. The View from Fez team took the train from Fez to Meknes (40 minutes) and then shared a grand taxi from the French Institute (Dh10 each) up to the village. The drive takes around 20 minutes and winds through spectacular countryside that's awash with colourful spring flowers. An important pilgrimage site, the village has an interesting main square with shops selling incense, prayer beads and candles for the faithful, and the main street is full of restaurants and cafes for watching the passing parade.

First thing we did was climb a lot of steps...

pausing every few feet to take in the views down the side alleys.

Along the way we found a lot of doors and behind one of them we found Mike Richardson from Cafe Clock in Fez.

Behind other doors we discovered secret gardens and it was from these places that we began to get a sense of the photogenic nature of Moulay Idriss. In almost every direction the view was superb.

We were now high enough to look down on activities below us, but of course not as high as a couple of girls right at the top, who watched our slow progress with much amusement.

All the exploration had left us very hungry and finding the downhill journey a lot easier, we made it in record time to the small street of cafes off the main square.

An eye out for passing trade.

Not only was the food excellent, the street was perfect for indulging in the Moroccan national passtime - people watching. Where else would you see a man walking by with a plough on his shoulder?

While in Moulay Idriss, The View from Fez was invited to preview Dar Zerhoune, the new hotel that's the brainchild of Rose Button and Mike Richardson of Cafe Clock. High up on the hill, the house has stupendous views across the mountains, the plains around Volubilis, and down to the river.

Relaxing on the terrace and gazing
across the valley is highly therapeutic.

The bedrooms are well-equipped to sleep three or four people, there's a comfortable sitting room, and meals are available. Prices are extremely reasonable - a dorm room is Dh180 per person per night and a double with en suite bathroom is Dh400, including a delicious Moroccan breakfast. You'll be well looked after by Faisal and his father.

The hotel is light and airy.

Interesting Moroccan design features

Maybe the greatest pleasure was to sit on the terrace in the sunset, watching the changing colours of the houses as the sun set far across the plain beyond Volubilis.

Look after yourself!

Moulay Idriss can be very hot in summer. Drink plenty of water, wear a hat, cover your arms and take some sun screen. This is especially inportant if you are visiting Volubilis as well.

The Details:

Getting there.
Take the train from Fez and get off at the 2nd stop in Meknes. (ticket approx 56 dirham for 1st class). Take a small taxi to grands taxis station. Ask for Moulay Idriss. Cost for two people is 60 dirhams or if you share it - 10 dirhams per person.

In Moulay Idriss, leave the taxi and walk up the hill to the main square. Here you will find cafes and down one particular side street a lot of small street restaurants that serve good cheap food.

At the top of the square are steps leading to the Moulay Idriss Mausoleum, which on Muslims may enter. However you can take the stairs at the side of the entrance way and climb to the top of the city for a fabulous panoramic view.

Staying:
Staying overnight and using Moulay Idriss as a base for visiting Volubilis is recommended. Book in advance with Faisal on +212 (0) 665 141 590. His English is perfect.

Visit Dar Zerhoune at www.buttonsinn.com or book through Fez Riads

All photographs: Sandy McCutcheon

Return to The View from Fez

Into the Rif - Part One.

2009-04-29T03:01:00.001-07:00

The day The View from Fez received the invitation to make a journey into the mountains near Taza, the sun was shining and the temperature just perfect. It sounded wonderful. However, the next morning when we left from the taxi station at Bab Ftouh, the rain began to sprinkle down. An hour later, as we wove up a mountain pass it began to bucket down. Finally about 90 kilometres from Fez we turned off the main road and went north until we arrived at a tiny village near Beni-Frassen.

It was market day and because of the rain storm the café was packed with farmers and townsfolk who had settled down to watch The Flight of the Phoenix on a huge plasma TV. The irony of watching such a film while being rained on was lost on nobody. Eventually the rain eased enough for us to exit through the back of the café. Here a surprise awaited us. A donkey bus station is probably the best way of describing it - donkeys and mules for hire.

Although the rain was settling in and the temperature dropping, we set out - unfortunately with no idea of just how far we had to walk. A stroll through an olive grove and to a house that had been described as "large", sounded okay. Our companions, Driss, Msefer and Thami were in good spirits... at least for a while.

Once we emerged from the olive grove it became clear that the local mud was something special. It had the unhelpful ability to ball in larger and larger amounts beneath your shoes until you were wobbling on "platform-heels" that weighted several kilos each. Thami's instant response, despite the now biting cold, was to remove his shoes.

A young boy passing on a donkey stopped and watched Thami in amazement. He then continued on his way, but kept glancing back as if to confirm the crazy thing he had seen was actually real.

Thami lasted quite a long time on foot - which is not to say we had made huge progress. Going was slow and the climb getting steeper by the moment. From time to time we would round a corner and a house would come into view, accompanied by the thought that "at last, this must be it" - it was not. Not then and not for several hours.

Even though we were still within sight of our departure point, Thami's feet needed a bit of a rest.

Once Thami transferred to a mule and looked considerably happier

About an hour into the climb, the rain set in very heavily and so we stopped in a tiny adobe shed that contained a traditional stone olive press. It was cold and damp, but at least it was out of the wind. Driss continued on up the mountain on the mule, but left us with the donkey who seemed happy enough to have rest and clear some grass from around the hut.

The stone grinding wheel was massive and there were also some beautifully woven baskets for transporting olives. It would be an interesting place to return to during the olive harvest.

Thami, however, was only interested in getting warm. But after a few minutes he kindly did some repair work on my walking boots that were not only wet through but absolutely caked with mud.

Eventually the rain eased and in a promising sign of better weather, the clouds began to lift.

It was at this point that Thami announced with great amusement that we were almost "half way to the house"

The journey continues in - Part Two.

Return to The View from Fez

Into the Rif - Part Two.

2009-04-29T02:13:00.001-07:00

As we continued our trek up the mountain there were occasional breaks in the rain and as the clouds lifted the view became more and more spectacular. Unfortunately there was still another hour or so of walking but now the path was just below the ridge and mostly out of the chilling wind.

From time to time we came across isolated sheep pens built from adobe and the sheep appeared very pleased to see us - probably expecting to be fed. By this stage however they were in more danger of being on our menu.

Other sheep took one look at us and fled with the young girl herding them chasing in pursuit. We also had a negative effect on a cow who thought we had kefta on our minds.

Finally, we turned a corner and there in front of us was a small adobe house with the biggest view imaginable. From this point it was fortunately slightly downhill and so the final muddy trudge was pure pleasure

As we arrived the woman of the family greeted us warmly and invited us inside. Her children were very shy of us at first, but soon warmed to us as our arrival caused the appearance of bread and mint tea.

Muddy boots and mint tea

And, as it does with Moroccan generosity, the tea and bread soon turned into, eggs, butter, olive oil, bowls of yogurt, olives, more mint tea, glasses of milk and fresh orange juice... oh and then there was cake.

Fortunately Thami was there to assist.

The man of the house and his son both joined us and we suspect it was to make sure we did not leave the table until it was bare - because as he said, " we need it clear for supper later".

Fortunately it was time to have a TV break - power courtesy of a tiny solar panel on the roof that costs the family 100 dirhams per month over many years. When you do the sums, that is an expensive price to pay for watching a black and white screen the size of a small paperback.

Iyeh, sidi! We have TV!

After a lot of food, more food and then talk and mint tea we finally wrapped ourselves in blankets on the floor and slept. It was freezing cold outside, but thankfully the morning brought sunshine and a sky that quickly cleared of almost all but the odd cloud or two.

By the time we arose, the donkeys had already been down the valley to collect drinking water. It used to be for sale quite close to the house but an earthquake last year broke the pipes and the water supply was contaminated. Our hosts insisted that the local mineral water spring was better water anyway - and certainly cheaper.

Most of their produce is for their own consumption though sometimes they sell barley or butter.

This small adobe hut appeared to be the home for dozens of chickens, some of whom joined us for breakfast on the "patio" At least until our host's son spotted them.

Our host arrived with the sheep and soon people were emerging from rooms or from out of the trees. Breakfast became a rather large affair.

We stayed until lunch time and then after another massive meal of milk couscous, bean and lamb tagine and fresh baked bread we saddled up the donkey and began the five and half kilometre trek down off the mountain. Now that the clouds had lifted the views were superb.

Behind us the men had returned to the animals and the fields, while our host's wife, who had cooked and served so much food, stood watching us, waving, until we were out of sight.

It will be a long time until we experience such warmth and hospitality - better than anything a five star hotel can provide.

The last image was a surprise glimpse from the top of the donkey. It shouldn't have been a surprise because of course in this part of the world all scarecrows should wear a traditional djellaba.

The View from Fez would like to express gratitude to Thami for straining his muscles and endurance to the extreme to take us on a visit to his family. Shukran Thami, shukran bizef.

Return to THE VIEW FROM FEZ

Or go back to PART ONE
all photographs: sandy mccutcheon